Subject: SMML03/12/99VOL748 Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 23:14:47 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Adm. Togo's flagship 2: Re : Small work-spaces and "closet modellers" 3: Ship modeling question #2 4: Togo's Flagship 5: Re: Painting hulls 6: Re: What I love and hate about ship modeling 7: Re: Humbrol purple 8: painting the boot topping 9: Love and hate 10: Re: What I love and hate about ship modeling 11: Re: "What-ifs" 12: Painting Boot top 13: Tsushima models 14: Re: It's supposed to be fun 15: Togo's Flagship 16: Hate / Love 17: Re: Onslow 18: Re: "What-if" models 19: What Do You Hate/Love The Most About Ship Modeling? 20: Shipmodelling Loves and Hates 21: Admiral Togo's Flagship 22: My 2 cents on painting boot tops 23: Re: On "What-if" models 24: Boot tops 25: Things I Love and Hate 26: Time to Build? 27: Tamiya Vosper Patrol Boat (1/72) 28: Love and hate 29: Re: Subchaser Info 30: USS Newport News 31: Re: What I hate/like the most 32: A Rare Bird 33: Re: Bogue & Tracker 34: Re: What I love and hate about ship modeling 35: Re: Closet Modeler 36: Blowing up the plastic!! 37: Resin Ship Kit Preferance 38: What I hate/love about ship modeling 39: Modeling love/hate 40: Re: HMS ONSLOW 41: Re: Bogue & Tracker 42: Re: On "What-if" models 43: Re: Hate the Most 44: Time to build -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: SMML website update info 2: Titanic Special -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS Hi gang, My apologies, I hit send accidently, before I had finished with today's posts. Here's the full volume. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Fernando, Yohan" Subject: Re: Adm. Togo's flagship I always thought Togo's flagship was the Mikasa? Isn't that why she is preserved in Japan? If this is the case, then I know Waveline (or Hi-Mold) makes a 1/700 resin Mikasa. Yohan Fernando -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Mike.Dunn@dresdner-bank.com Subject: Re : Small work-spaces and "closet modellers" Well, I guess there must be a few of them about! A friend of mine moved back in with his parents when he divorced (what, 10 years back?). He got his old bedroom back, but having to put all his stuff there left no room for modelling. His solution? The cupboard off the hall. Just enough room for a table across the back, shelves on the sides & his chair! Did some nice stuff in there, as well. >> Myself, I think I would have made the trek out to the garage, I like LOTS of space!!! << Ditto! My garage has been converted into my study!!! Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Michael Morse Subject: Ship modeling question #2 There is no funnel cap/grill for my Airfix 1/600 HMS Ajax model. I have some leftover PE rails and I don't want to buy another PE set. What's the best way to scratch-build the grill? Mike Morse East Coast Miniatures -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "John Rule" Subject: Togo's Flagship I think Togo's flagship at Tsu-shima was the Mikasa. Pit-Road (Skywave) make an exceptionally good resin model of the ship in 1:700 scale. John Rule -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Painting hulls >> I would've thought that it would be easier to get one relatively simple demarcation line between the hull color and the red and then drive yourself nuts trying to mask two parallel lines for the boot top. Please educate me as to the advantage of the other way before I create needless work for myself. << You still have to mask two lines. The top and bottom of the waterline boot. Before masking anything, I spray a black coat around the hull at the boot level. I use thin, vinyl auto pin striping tape to mask the top and bottom, then fill in the area between the tape. This (for me anyway) doesn't matter if overspray finds its way on the lower hull. Since the entire boot is masked of you just need to loosely mask off the upper hull on the masked off boot topping. There's no easy way to do this. Just different ways. An even easier way is to cut the tape to the width on the waterline boot. Mask once and leave until last to remove it. The compound curves are still a pain and would have to be masked separately. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SeaPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: What I love and hate about ship modeling Hello All, What I love about ship modeling: Opening the box! The thing I most dislike: Filling/Sanding....Filling/Sanding...then more Filling/Sanding Kurt Greiner SeaPhoto Maritime Photography -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: Humbrol purple Filipe, As far as I know it's still 107. If you can't find any contact me off list, I still have a dozen or so cans in the rack. Cheers, Bob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "lcp9" Subject: painting the boot topping I learned this from my days as a truck mechanic when we has to paint the fancy stripes on semitractors: An air brush & thin coats works best for this,also let the paint dry a couple days before putting on the tape. First paint the hull flat black, then run a strip of masking tap boottopping width along the hull to cover the now painted on boot topping. Throughly burnish the tape to get a good seal,then spray another coat of flat black to seal the tape. The flat black will darken the colors put on over it, so either lighten the hull colors or undercoat the hull with or flat white. After the hull is all painted pull the tape. Use a scuff pad (sold in auto paint supply stores) to take away the sharp edge that builds up along the tape,and finish with a clear coat. Also since the tape is going to be on there for a while, use a good quality low tac masking tape. Also sold at auto paint supply stores. I've always cut both sides of the masking tape with a fresh razor blade & a straight edge, it gives a straighter edge than the faxctory cut tape edge. David In clear & sunny Florida where it's now clear sunny & Cold Florida ! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Jeff Herne" Subject: Love and hate Interesting thread...one I don't believe has been broached in issues prior... The most dreadful part of building for me, is the tedious repetitious stuff, like 40mm mounts on a Iowa, or folding the wings and applying photoetched parts to an entire air group of 1/700 aircraft... The best part of building are actually 2 things, the initial research, learning not about the ship, but about her career, crew, and even ships carrying her name before her. The second part is the finish work, adding the little things that give the ship a personality. On that note, for any of you in the NY/NJ/CT area, on December 5, 1999, the USS Ling (SS-297) will be having its annual Pearl Harbor Ceremony at 1300hrs. I, along with fellow SMMLie Gary Kingzette, will be doing a ship model display for the public and vets. Email me for further details if you wish to attend or participate. We wil be setting up at 1100hrs. In addition to the Ling herself, the museum has recently acquired a German 'Seehund' and Japanese 'Kaiten', both are on display. Best, Jeff Herne -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: What I love and hate about ship modeling Painting. I hate painting. It seems as if I am always messing up a paint job, regardless of the type of model. And although I have never yet done a serious photo-etch job, I suspect that I will dislike that intensely, too. I have a bad case of the fumble fingers when it comes to delicate parts. What I love the most is the actual assembly. The model really begins to come to life as that box of parts starts to resemble an actual, real life object. That is when my imagination takes over and I see that ship in her famous battle, or that particular airplane leaving the area after a successful dog fight. I also love actually finishing a model. A great sense of accomplishment results from placing a finished model on the shelf. Mike Settle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Melvin Burmaster" Subject: Re: "What-ifs" I am one to confess to doing "what ifs", and furthermore inducing Mike Bartel of Imperial Navy to market his "what ifs". Without a doubt some of more fascinating subjects such as the "Washington Cherry Trees" have been produced by Mike. I daresay anyone who has an eye to the technical and visual realizations of ship design need consider one or two "what ifs" in portraying the evolution of the modern warship. I also have scratch built some of the early 1930 US battleship designs. True, none will win any contests since all you can show are blueprints and drawings by important ship pictorialists, but the intellectual enjoyment one derives from the ability to interact with warship design and engineering (think about how you would meet the 60 % rule on armor, weapons and machinery, for example) is the reward in of itself. Perhaps someone might come out with a webpage to collate "what ifs" in existence in the archives of Whitehall, Berlin, Paris, etc. Respectfully, Melvin J. Burmaster -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: Painting Boot top Steve Lau wrote; >> Rusty, thanks for your reply (and everyone else's too) to my question about painting decks. You mentioned masking and painting the boot top first and then masking and painting the side of the hull followed by the red undercoating. In my mind I envisioned it as easier to do the boot top last since that would seem to save some masking hassles. I would've thought that it would be easier to get one relatively simple demarcation line between the hull color and the red and then drive yourself nuts trying to mask two parallel lines for the boot top. << Steve: My method may be the same as Rusty's but I might just be describing it differently. I paint the boot topping color first. I then mask off the boot top. I can then paint the lower hull in the anti-fouling red and the upper hull in gray, masking off the upper and lower areas as appropriate. When complete with the gray and red, I remove the masking tape over the boot topping and the two colors are separated with an even parallel boot top line. The availability of narrow masking tape is good if you use automotive striping tapes. Take care, Kurt Van Dahm Westmont, IL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: Tsushima models Hi David The resin firm Modelkrak are planning to bring out a model of the Fuji and a whole load of other Japanese warships from that period. Chris Langtree SMMLies cannot have fragrance. This is reserved for Mary Archer. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Re: It's supposed to be fun I totally agree! Modeling should be for you enjoyment and don't worry about if it is not detailed 100 % or the color is correct and so on. If you are not entering it in competition then you should not worry that much. I think we get a little to carried away with accuracy of our models I will give you an example - when I was in the Navy we painted the Focs'le of our ship three differant colors at three different times. Gray, Deck Red and Dark Gray in a period of 2 years. So which is correct if I am going to do a model of her. To me the answer would be Deck Red because it is a nice contrast and I always thought she looked her best then - but if someone served on her at a later or earlier day than I did they would swear up and down that she never had red on her decks - especially since I have no photos. So who is correct - who cares! So Derek have fun - enjoy the hobby - build you own fleet to your satisfaction. Michael Donegan Navydaze Naval & Aviation Art http://members.aol.com/navydaze/INDEX.HTML -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Bob Pearson" Subject: Togo's Flagship Sorry David, but Togo's flagship was the Mikasa. There is the Hi-Mold 1/700 resin model of it available from HLJ in Japan for 6,900 yen. I did an inbox review of it at: http://www.internetmodeler.com/nov99/ships/index.htm So far I have most of it assembled and must say it is coming along nicely and is going to be a great addition to the collection when done. Regards, Bob Pearson Managing Editor / Internet Modeler http://www.internetmodeler.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "larsenal" Subject: Hate / Love Great idea Felix! What I hate the most: To have not enough time to make my own models ! I've only completed an Aviso A-69, and had no time to even start construction of a Flower Class Corvette. So ship modeling is for me a great frustration! What I love the most: Starting a new project and see modelers happy with my modest efforts I think that, we, poor models designers have the same problem. Isn't it Caroline and Dave? Best regards to all Jacques Druel L'Arsenal -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: WRPRESSINC@aol.com Subject: Re: Onslow I don't believe that the ship went into service in overall grey. AND------no pendent numbers either. Overall grey and pendent number only as delivered by the builders. Initial scheme was dark grey hull and light grey upperworks until mid 1942. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: John Philip Downing Subject: Re: "What-if" models I took a Revell 1/720 Prinz Eugen and converted it to the planned light carrier Seydlitz. The result was somewhat crude, but it was a lot of fun. I have some of the never-built ships IHP put out, but haven't built any yet. I like the idea of a late-war Montana in camoflage, and just LOADED with anti-aircraft gins. John Downing -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Courtney Regan" Subject: What Do You Hate/Love The Most About Ship Modeling? Well just thought I'd throw in my $ .02 on this quickly growing thread. The ups of building a model ship; 1. The instant gratification of opening the box and examining the kit. True at this point it's only a bunch of plastic or resin 2. For myself when it comes to any photoetched sets, I could spend up to an hour just looking at the brass sets and thinking of how I'm going to attach them and what are my options to attach them in the most successful way. 3. Adding the armament of the ship really makes the ship look like a fearsome warship. 4. Seeing all of the various sub-assemblies of the ship before they go before the final gluing to the hull. I actually feel like 'I' am the shipyard, build the ship in the dry-dock or on the ways :-) 5. Doing a reasonable amount of scratch building really adds to the enthusiasm level and I take more pride in the model when doing this. 6. Adding the rigging and decals, which I thing I'm fairly good and competent at. These last two tasks usually go hand and hand, and signify for me that my model is almost complete; about 95%. At this point I can see the proverbial 'light at the end of the tunnel.' 7. And of course the best part is finishing the model ;-) The downs of building; 1. Sanding anything is a real pain. Whether it is plastic or resin, sanding quickly takes the joy out of modeling. When I have to do this it feels like a job, and that's not what modeling is supposed to do. 2. The varying amounts of masking that has to be applied to each model in the effort to paint the ship. Sometimes it can be an easy task or a nightmare that tests my patience and can take hours. 3. The time one must wait to let paint sufficiently dry before you can paint again. 4. Spending so much time trying to get the right match when it comes to ship colors. 5. The cost to do a ship model is not cheap, especially since I really prefer the 1/350 kits and of course I have to buy all of the accessories that go with that (i.e. photoetch sets, stands, paints, research material, etc.) 6. And of course there never seems to be enough time to do a kit the way you want. There are a limited number of hours in the day and it doesn't help if you're a college student as I am! It is probably even worse if you have a full time job and a family. Well that's my opinion on the ups and downs. To digress here, I'd like to ask any modeler out there if they could help me out with my pet peeve # 1 when it comes to sanding. Well I'm looking for a good electric rotary sander that can take grits of up to 600. But it can't be too fast (10,000 rpm and slower) or else it will melt the plastic. The only sander I have seen that comes close to what I'm looking for is a microlux sander sold by Micro Mark (micromark.com). It sells for around $70, which is a bit more than I'd like to spend; so will someone out there send me some tips on where I can get the this a sander with these type of features for a bit less. Thanks a lot. Courtney Regan Boston, MA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Suvoroff@aol.com Subject: Shipmodelling Loves and Hates I love; Starting the model; Completing the model. I hate; the stuff in the middle. Yours, James D. Gray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Suvoroff@aol.com Subject: Admiral Togo's Flagship I thought that Togo's flagship at Tsu-Shima was the Mikasa - for which there is a resin kit around, I beleive. Yours, James D. Gray -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Denis & Marilyn Campbell Subject: My 2 cents on painting boot tops That's the way I do it. First i make a light pencil mark at about the midpoint of where the boot topping will be using a home made level guage, then I spray the hull color, without too much regard to the bottom edge except to make sure it extends to or below the pencil mark. Then I mask the hull color roughly at the mid point of the boot topping and spray the bottom red (which is darker and will cover the hull color where they meet). Then I mask the top and bottom edges of the boot topping (the darkest color) and spray the black for the boot topping. The really careful measuring/marking and masking only comes about in the last step - all the others are approximate. But then, we all put our trousers on differently (left leg first? or right?) - do what seems easiest and most natural to you Denis Campbell Avon MA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: JOHN A BURCH Subject: Re: On "What-if" models I have two 1/700 scale "What-If" models under construction. Both models are scratchbuilts. The first is USS CONSTELLATION (CC 2), the second unit of the LEXINGTON Class Battlecruisers, which was scrapped, along with three sister ships, due to the Washington Treaty. The "Final" design of the LEXINGTON Class Battlecruiser is used in the Plastic Ship Modeler's logo. I was inspired to build this model by seeing four photos of a model of this ship at a Japanese web site earlier this year. The Japanese modeler built his model in 1/700 scale. The interesting thing he had done was to show the ship as she might have looked in 1942, with tripod masts replacing cagemasts, and in Measure 12 Mod (mottled) camouflage. I decided to build my model for the same time period, but assuming that she had undergone a more extensive mid-life upgrade to delete the 6" secondary battery and upgrade her AA armament with 5"/38s and 1.1" machine guns, and associated directors. The second model is USS UNITED STATES (CVA 58), what would have been the USN's first "Supercarrier", had she not been canceled in 1949, which led to the so-called "Revolt of the Admirals". UNITED STATES was to have been a Flush Deck design, without an island. She also had a unique flight deck arrangement, which to some degree anticipated the British development of the angled deck. Friedman's "U.S. Aircraft Carriers" shows a 1948 drawing of what UNITED STATES would have looked like. Of the two models, CONSTELLATION is by far the more complete, with hull, superstructure, funnels, bridge/conning tower, barbettes and main battery gun houses finished. For UNITED STATES, I've only cut the waterline for a "bread and butter" hull. John Burch Gaithersburg, MD USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "Summers,David" Subject: Boot tops Here's an off-the-wall suggestion for boot tops (waterlines): Graphic Arts Supply stores sell reels of adhesive tape ostensibly for marking maps. The tape comes in all widths, from 0.03 mm to 5 mm, in all colors, from black to olive drab to silver, gloss or flat. Spray paint the bottom and hull side, apply the appropriate width of flat black tape over the edge when dry. Not straight? -- peel it off and reapply as needed. Added bonus: it corrects overspray problems and other minor errors. It's stretchy enough to accomodate moderate surface deformities--though not a highly sloped stern. (They do have special tapes for making curves, but with a rough "wrinkled" surface on the tape.) The primary downside is the thickness of the tape--often less visible, in my opinion, than the various inconsistencies involved with masking and spraying the black. Most useful in larger scales such as 1/350 or 1/400; maybe not 1/700 or smaller. I've never had one peel off years later in the display case. I've found the tapes useful for extremely complex aircraft canopies (read He-111, Ju-87, Ju-88, B-29), in case you have a friend who does aircraft. Way faster than masking. In aircraft, the thickness is authentic. D Summers -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: "Ralph & Karen Batykefer" Subject: Things I Love and Hate Actually I enjoy most things about modeling ships. But my favorites are: 1. Researching and Modeling a ship's unique modifications/uses to puzzle onlookers. (ie. USS Forrestal w/ C-130 Hercules taking off of deck) 2. Surprising a person with a model of their ship. 3. Playing with little things like photoetch. (ie. folding 1/700 SPS-8A units) 4. Superdetailing/Correcting models so small that nobody else notices. (ie. that Italeri USS Forrestal with corrections and additions for 1963) 5. Designing photoetch and decals on the computer. What I Hate: 1. Fumes... I rarely remember anything after this. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Time to Build? Derek "Tiger" Wakefield wrote: >> Eventually I will have to start work on one of the kits I have.<< Well, not necessarily, especially if you're thinking about remarrying or inviting your girlfriend to move in. : ) There is probably some formula that states that the number of kits you actually finish is inversely proportional to the number of people/animals with whom you live. Mike L Alexandria, VA USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: Mark Cuevas Subject: Tamiya Vosper Patrol Boat (1/72) Hello All, Just decided to start the Tamiya Vosper and I was wondering about the deck color. The instruction say that the deck was painted green. The question is what shade of green? For those of you who might have this model please tell me that it is not the same shade of green that the plastic comes in Thank in advance Mark -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Robert OConnor Subject: Love and hate Just like life itself...So many things I love, and love to hate...about shipmodeling (or any other type, for that matter). Love..opening that new kit-oh the anticipation.Dryfitting for weeks while I finish up an already inprogress work.The first moment of cement to plastic (or resin).the last piece of photoetch. Hate...having to wait to buy that new kit.Having to wait to build that new kit (school, work, kids, wife, honeydo's). The first photoetch part.Dropping the 90% finished product when moving it for the night.Snip...ping...tiny ballistic parts flying across the kitchen...new words for the kiddies to learn. Derek- Wake up boy, it's the fourth quarter-get in the game. Modelling is for fun. Experts be damned. Tear open a box, get a cheap hobby knife and an emery board,and BUILD!!!!! HAVE FUN.. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: Subchaser Info There is a site that is primarily devoted to the WW2-era SC's, but it also has a WW1 link. The URL is: http://members.aol.com/diodor/splinterfleet/ One source for info is the Freidman book 'US Small Combatants: An Illustrated Design History". It and others are listed at the above web site. The Glencoe kit is supposed to be about 1/74 scale and was originally issued by ITC (?) many years ago. Mike L Alexandria, VA USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: Robert OConnor Subject: USS Newport News Hey, Gang.. Just getting ready to start a few new projects and need some help with some details-not much really and this should be a piece of cake for you guys at USS Salem..During the late 60's and early 70's,what was the deck color of USS Newport News? Did she have wood decks or steel?If wood, were they painted grey or left natural. My research doesn't tell,and photos I have don't show the deck well enough to tell.Any help would be appreciated. Also, are any of the etched stern deck cranes available on the market appropriate for her in that fit??I'm thinking one of the GMM cruiser cranes will do, but any suggestions will be welcome. Thanks, from unseasonably cool Central Florida, where I start the annual Holiday rituals of outdoor lights and indoor upheaval... Bob O'Connor -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 31) From: Allan and Crystal Plumb Subject: Re: What I hate/like the most Chris Langtree said: >> Likes I really enjoy carrying out the research for a ship and then transferring this research to the model. It's also very satisfying to see the model gradually take shape as a representation of the real thing. << Those are _exactly_ my favorite parts of ship modeling (and air/armor too). I read lots of history, and tend to want to build something representative of what I've read. No triremes yet, but just wait. Do have some Roman legionnaire figures... My dislike is all the details. I like the finished product, but the endless time spent on the last 5% of the model seems so cost-ineffective. But I suffer through it anyway since I like the result. Obviously, YMMV. OTOH, those last details are one of the reasons my wife doesn't give me grief and buys me MB models kits. She likes all the "pointy bits", and 1/350 is the way to go, there. (And yes, 1/96 would have even more, but I've only got one house.) Allan Plumb -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32) From: WRPRESSINC@aol.com Subject: A Rare Bird I realise that this request will almost certainly fall upon stony ground, but never the less; does anybody know of, or have a photo of CODRINGTON which shows her disruptive camouflage pattern clearly. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33) From: ECammeron@aol.com Subject: Re: Bogue & Tracker Look carefully at the islands of both kits. The Tracker has a part to represent the British radar 'lantern' and the bridge platform is different from that of Bogue. Apparently the early US CVEs had the same style platform as that of Tracker but during post shakedown overhauls it was modified to the style shown in the Bogue kit. Look at early 1943 pictures of Card and Bogue and you see the original style, while a late 1943 picture shows the later style. Also the later style bridge usually got the reinforcing strips on the starboard side. Just to confuse matters, look at CVE Nassau - she has a slightly different bridge style and a completely different layout of her 40-mm twin mounts. Floating Drydock has a 1944 plan of her and it doesn't match any other US Bogue as far as I have been able to find. Eugene -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34) From: Marc Flake Subject: Re: What I love and hate about ship modeling I love putting all the plastic bits together. I hate starting the PE part (in fact I'm procrastinating right now before adding the PE to the Texas). However, I like my PE'd models better than the ones that don't have PE. Marc Flake Tarrant County, Texas (Where I'm wearing shorts and a T-shit in December) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35) From: "Chris Neel" Subject: Re: Closet Modeler I think I've been able to take that "closet modeling" thing to the next level.... I live in an old (built in 1946) small wood frame house (24' x 40' - about 960 sq. ft.) - it has a living room, kitchen, dining room, utility room, a bathroom, one "master" bedroom and one other small bedroom that I use as a library/computer room/storage room. There was a dirt floor garage that wasn't even big enough to park my truck in (11ft x 16ft).... Well, I've have plans drawn up for a new garage that will have a full foundation and is 1.1/2 wide and is what they call one and a half stories (there is an upstairs room but it will only be about 6 feet tall with a sloping ceiling but will basically be 16' x 24'). The sole intended purpose for this room is to be a place for me to build and display my models...... This is something that I haven't even told my family or closest friends, my explanation for the upstairs room being "I need more storage space"..... This will also be a place safe (hopefully) from my sometimes overly playful (but mostly sleeping) cat. Currently, all of my modeling projects are on hold pending completion of the new garage, hopefully by next spring (the original garage has already been torn down and most of it hauled off to the dump). I am however continuing to collect kits at a feverent pace - eBay can be addictive - but then I love being able to find a lot of out of production kits without even having to leave home. Living in Victoria, Texas which is 2 hours from any major city in any direction and has no hobby stores to speak of whatsoever (Hobby Lobby being the closest thing - arrgh) makes it difficult to go out and about shopping..... I have picked various (many) 1/48 scale U.S. Navy aircraft which extends through the history of Naval Aviation starting with the 1930's biplanes (F3F, SBC, F4B) and monoplanes (SB2U, TBD, F2A) in their Pre-War Colors through WW II (Early War and Tri-Color schemes), Korea (overall Sea Blue), Viet Nam (Gray over white) and on through to the current aircraft (Low Viz Gray). I also intend to build a sizable fleet of 1/700 scale ships - mainly based on aircraft carrier subjects but certainly not limited to them. My votes for 1/700 kit subjects: 1. USS Wasp - CV-7 2. HMS Courageous or Glorious (aircraft carrier configuration) 3. HMS Eagle - WWII Aircraft Carrier 4. HMS Glory - Korean War era (I recommend "With the Carriers in Korea" - by John Lansdown for a great book on RN and RAN naval activity in the Korean war) 5. USS Midway - straight deck configuration 6. I anxiously await WEM's HMS Furious (1941) release..... These would all nicely round out my Naval Aviation Collection..... Does any one know of a 1/48 scale McDonnell F3H-2 Demon model (any media - vacuum form, resin, etc.)? I have not been able to find one. Nor have I been able to find a biplane US Navy torpedo plane (such as the Martin T4M). Or how about a Curtis SOC-3 Seagull (also 1/48)? Thanks - and happy modeling! cn -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36) From: Minadmiral@aol.com Subject: Blowing up the plastic!! >> you know, like we used to do with those Lindburg Hood's and Bismarck's with BB Guns and M-80's. Now that was some really exciting fun, BLOWING SHIT UP-YEA! Well now, you get the picture. << I hear you Steve. Only in my case it was the motorized OREGON kits (8-10) set out on Lake Murrey, near San Diego. We started with BB guns, then .22 pellet guns with EXPLOSIVE pellets. Later we went to .22 rifles and finally a Weatherby .357 big game rifle!! No one had ever told us about the ricochet effect over water, luckily the far side of the lake was miles of brush. Today it`s all houses!! Chuck Duggie -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37) From: Minadmiral@aol.com Subject: Resin Ship Kit Preferance >> both fleets at Tsushima << I WOULD KILL FOR THESE!!!!!!!!!!!! I would wargame in 1:700. instead of my scratch-built 1:1200! Chuck Duggie -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38) From: "Ralph Koziarski" Subject: What I hate/love about ship modeling Great idea for a thread. So if I may.... Yes im relatively new to ship modeling. I've touched upon it when i was younger, and I've gone through the "blowing shit up" phase as well (someone tell the navy that the Nimitz is highly suceptible to attack by firecracker) ANYWHO!... What I love 1. Finding a kit I want at the hobby shop 2. comming home and fondling the box contents 3. cleaning up seems+drilling port holes (yes i am most likely insane) 4. definatly mounting the guns 4.5 Gluing together the nice big parts 5. gawking at a finished model 6. painting the camo 7. listening to Eric Clapton albums while i build what I hate 1. dropping small parts into the shaggy void carpeting while I play air guitar while listening to eric clapton albums 2. Boot topping 3. ditto for rigging 4.when my butterfingers drop a ship (this wouldnt be too much of a problem, but the laws of physics dictate that a model ship must land on the ground masts first) 5. touch up painting can drive a good man to a life of crime 6. what I call "broomstick torpedos" Joe, who's mom's name is Bismark will know what im talking about here 7. and finally the simple fact that i dont have as much time as i would like. Alas it's true what they say about college life Idea for a new thread---- what was your worst model ship disaster? mine involved my Kiso. I airbrush out on my balcony. I covered the floor with newspapers and gave the Kiso a coat of paint. I went inside for a while and when i returned later I figured mother nature had a death wish. Apparently the wind picked up and lifted the newspapers which got stuck to the wet paint. and since i was gone so long it dried that way. Let me tell you it was not fun getting all that off -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 39) From: Keith Butterley Subject: Modeling love/hate Hi group, I love doing the rigging. I think nothing sets off a ship more than rigging well done. I can forgive myself a lot of other blunders made during the construction of a kit, if I can get the rigging on and looking good. Mind if I screw that up as well, I generally just have a horrid looking lump of plastic. To echo what was said yesterday, I hate tiny PE parts. Sometimes I think the designers are a bunch of sadistic swine. Do you know how much time I wasted trying to get that gun mounting ring on the Belfast's Walrus Mr. Hall? Do you know what I finally did with it, which I should have done in the first place? Then again would you not have PE? I think knot. It's just so DAMN FRUSTRATING!!!!!! Have a good weekend all. Keith Butterley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 40) From: Tim Stoneman Subject: Re: HMS ONSLOW You'll probably get a few responses - she had white pennant numbers, at least at one stage (in October 1941, if the captions are to be believed). Ensign 6 has a series of detail shots of her in the final stages of fitting out, and both stern and starboard numbers are shown in white. Not shown is whether she was painted as a leader - in theory, leaders shouldn't have had pennant numbers, but there are numerous photos showing evidence to the contrary. Note she also has white draft marks, at least the ones level with the propellors and those abeam the after superstructure. Tim Stoneman -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 41) From: CBNJBB62@aol.com Subject: Re: Bogue & Tracker Hi Guys I have the following. Concerning the Skywave Tracker to the Tamiya Boogie kits. There are 3 differences: 1. The Bogue kits gives you an air group of 4 Hellcats, 4 Corsairs, 4 Avengers and 4 Helldivers. The Tracker gives you 2 B-17s and 2 PBY's 2. The Bridge has a lookout station on the Tracker that the Bogue doesn't have. 3. A decal sheet for the Tracker has all names and hull numbers for the RN Ruler class with British aircraft markings, the Bogue decal sheet has the names and hull numbers for Bogue class except in Flight deck numbers which has only one "20" for the Barnes and US aircraft markings for 1944. The Tracker should have a Letter for it's Flight and there's none. Craig Bennett -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: On "What-if" models Most of my "want to do" projects fall into the "what if" or "might've been" category. That's one of the reasons I wouldn't enter them in a contest. The other reasons being A) I'm not competitive, and B) I model for my own pleasure, not to show off to the joneses. For example, a underway display of with a Fujimi Saratoga CV3 and CW Helena CL50, both in Ms 32 schemes. Never happened because Helena was sunk two years earlier. However, I like the two ships, the notion of them sailing together in those particular schemes. If I put that on a table at a contest...nuff said. Another one I'd like to try (and will probably have to scratchbuild) is a US Galveston CLG with a superstructure based on a Dutch De Zeven Proviencien CLG. The idea occured to me some 20 yrs ago given the similar lay out and size of the two ships. It'd be sort of a cross between a Galveston and an Albany (with US model 6-inch, 5-inch, and 3-inch weapons in place of the Dutch ship's 6-inch, 57mm, and 40mm weapons). A Worchester cl CL based on the same scheme is another one I've considered. J Griffin Murphey also converted a Missouri to a Montana, that was showcased in FSM May 92. He/they said they based it on the drawings in the Dulin-Garze book, but the model doesn't match those drawings. I can forgive that though on the grounds that if the ship had been built, there's no telling what the arrangement of her AA guns would've been based on war experience. We're also talking hypothetical here, so I say take those creative licences. The odd thing is the write up says it was built using a Revell 1:350 Missouri. I've never seen or even heard of such a kit. It looks more like a Tamiya given the level of detail (a far cry from any Revell kit I've ever seen). Then again, Phil Kirchmeier did wonders with his Revell Buckley (sheesh, what an inspiring write up!!) Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 43) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Re: Hate the Most >> The liitle woman saying to me "I wish you would spend as much time with me << I only wish I had that problem (I really need to get out of the house more often) Ah jeeze...it's been so long. What I've always hated the most is painting decks. No matter how hard I tried, I could never avoid getting the deck color paint on all the fittings and superstructure. I also hated dealing with putty (never could get it smoothed out properly) and finding malformed parts. I never once had a Revell 1:535 Missouri kit that wasn't missing the lower part of the A turret (a molding problem I suppose). What I like the most is the joy of completing the model and putting it on the shelf. Nowadays, I'd also say I enjoy the research and seeing the potential of where details can be added that I never considered in the past. I'd also agree with Joe Costanzo's comment about adding the guns. I love ships that bristle with guns. And Joe...regarding the Long Beach, she did have two single 5-inch/38-cal mounts (and later a number of Vulcan Phalanxes). . Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 44) From: Derek Wakefield Subject: Time to build In regard to Mike L's comments about modeling and significant others. See my earlier comment. I haven't had a significant other since '93 (but I sure as heck wouldn't mind finding one). Other than the lack of space, tools, supplies (re: money), etc, modeling isn't the only hobby I have, and as someone else here commented, there ain't enough hours in the day! Dasvidanya! _|_o_|_ Derek "Tiger" (/\)akefield /---(.](o)[.)---\ iscandar2@chatter.com o oo O oo o http://www.iscandar-66.org -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Shane Subject: SMML website update info Hi gang, The website has undergone a few changes, not least the fact that's it's moved & now has a new webmaster. The new site is at: http://www.smml.org.uk/ Yup, we now have a domain name, courtesy of SMML's new webmaster Mike Dunn. Mike as some of you know had set up a site for SMML reviews & that has grown into the current site. Mike has put in a helluva lot of work with some feedback on how the site should look - well done Mr Dunn (sorry couldn't resist it ;-þ ) We now have new picposts including a walkaround of HMS Belfast, Spanish LCTs, Mark Krumney's award winning models & some Bismarck shots. The volumes are also complete upto issue 300, my thanks to those who have provided me with the issues I was missing. So pop over & have a gander at it. Any feedback, as well as contributions are most welcome. Regards, Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Conan35@aol.com Subject: Titanic Special Model Expo is currently offering a combo special, the Minicraft Deluxe Titanic kit PLUS a high quality numbered limited edition Titanic poster. Total value $329.95, now on sale for $119.99, No. RE157C. The Minicraft kit is also available separately as item No. MC11315. We have also just added a wooden model of the first true submarine Ictineo II by Anfero Models of Barcelona, item no. Anf101, list $249.95, sale $169.99. It is a very interesting kit. Also, our airbrush best-seller kit by Aztec, item A4709 is now on sale for $69.99, the lowest price we have seen anywhere. All at http://www.modelexpoinc.com Best regards Rob Finley Web Site Mgr. Model Expo, Inc. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for having SMML at your home, why not stop by our home at: http://www.smml.org.uk/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume