Subject: SMML VOL 1542 Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:10:26 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Airfix Repulse 2: Re: waterline hulls 3: Re: PLANS for German S-100 Boat 4: Re: Posers and Squabbling Snipes 5: KGV refit details 6: Ship Photo Gallery - WW 1 7: Pearl Harbor Bridge 8: flat paint variation for figures/ships 9: NRM 10: Re: posers 11: Re: HMS Tiger 12: Re: Posers 13: ship's boats 14: USS Enterprise to retire in 2013 15: Re: Ship Speeds 16: Putty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: ZMzimmerman@cs.com Subject: Airfix Repulse To anyone looking for the Airfix 1/600 H.M.S. Repulse there is one for sale on Ebay under item # 1706543251 if you are interested. Michael Zimmerman -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: waterline hulls >> Making the shaped hole in the glass, to fit the hull, will be a lot more difficult, however << Not difficult at all if you use some brand of acrylic (like plexiglass for instance) instead of real glass. My articles in the June '87 and July '91 issues of Fine Scale Modeler show my easy method of cutting the hole for a perfect fit every time. That being said, for scales of 1/350 and below I usually cut the hulls off just below the waterline. I prefer them that way. Cheers, Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Kevin L Wenker <winks147@cox.net> Subject: Re: PLANS for German S-100 Boat 32nd // went bankrupt leaving many, many people holding their reciepts in their hands. The Simon's, former owners of this late company, were not very honorable people. The plans for the E-boat were very plain with little detail. The new book by Steve Wiper has a small set of plans with far more detail. I highly recommend this. Just got mine and it is the absolute best resource I have found for the E-boat. I also just received the new Revell kit from Pacific Hobbies. In lieu of a set of plans, use this model. It is as good as the Airfix kit was bad. As far as the 32nd // boat (35th scale), 32nd // bought their kit of the E-boat from Accuscale around 1983 and did nothing to upgrade the plans. Kevin Wenker -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Rick Heinbaugh <heinbau@gte.net> Subject: Re: Posers and Squabbling Snipes For Mike C: Traffic is directed (up & forward on the stbd side) when everybody on the ship has to go someplace at the exactly same moment, that is, when the ship is just going to General Quarters. Any other time, there are no rules - go the easiest way you can. Fletchers didn't have a single long internal passageway. To get from internal spaces or the after deckhouse to points forward, you would have to go on the weather deck. For the cranky Machinist's Mate: Note from the Chief Engineer to M and B Divisions: When the engines have a problem, WE have a problem. When the boilers have a problem, WE have a problem. Knock off this crap about THEM and US. Maybe some personnel need to be swapped between the two divisions for a little while, so that we all understand our problems and don't use uniform cleanliness as a mark of intelligence... -Cheng Consider the "engine problem" on the ship in Desron 23: The ship's maximum available speed can be limited by lots of _engineering_ problems, anything from a condenser that has too many plugged or leaky tubes to a weak feed pump to a bad bearing and many points in between. The contents of the Engine Rooms and the Fire Rooms are all part of the whole propulsion unit. This discussion almost has my interest piqued enough to go and read up on which ship had the problem and what it was. Almost, but not quite. :-) By the way, when I started out as an Aviation Electronics Technician (AT), "dumb snipe" referred to all MMs and BTs, as well as HTs and EMs. It was only poetic justice that after being commissioned, I had more Engineering Department jobs that topside jobs. Rick -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Think Tank" <think.tank@tesco.net> Subject: KGV refit details Ah, the KGVs again& Warship 9 and 10 have plans (albeit pretty small) and starboard elevations of all the class after their various refits, plus descriptions of the modifications themselves. Am I the only person in the whole world who owns these publications? Or is everyone just laughing at me continually leading people down a blind alley? As well as the almost unobtainable Raven & Robetrts British Battleships, the obtainable (if at ruinous prices!) Man o'War on the class is worth having. Having said that, if you tot up the cost of the same number of IWM photos and compare it to the prices being asked for these books, they can still appear a bargain (everything is relative!) As to the Tamiya 1/350 example, Mike Gould reviewed it in Scale Models in September 1986. The configuration is, according to him and apparently true from the photos I have seen of it, that of post-March 1944, when she was refitted for operations with the British Pacific Fleet. Details to be altered include added gash shutes, fill some scuttles, add rectangular scuttles aft, remove and fill location for second rearmost anchor on starboard side and associated focsle chain. Robert Lockie Swindon UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject: Ship Photo Gallery - WW 1 http://www.ukans.edu/~kansite/ww_one/naval/pg000000.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Schiefet@cs.com Subject: Pearl Harbor Bridge >> I have a question ........ is there some bridge near or around the Harbor that I could have misinterpreted as going to Ford Island? << There is a two lane metal bridge to the end of Ford Island. It provides much easier access to Ford Island for tours of USS Missouri. I believe it was constructed in 1998 or 1999 (it was there before I visited in May '99). It appears to be in approximately the mooring for the USS Solace on December 7 and enters Ford Island near the Admiral's residence. The bridge is very low, barely off the water. It has a section which can be raised in the middle, but the section is not bog enough for a ship of any real size to pass through. Steve Pelham, NH -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "john fiebke" <fiebke@hotmail.com> Subject: flat paint variation for figures/ships >> Another reason I never liked human figures was the fact that although they may have been painted correctly for the uniforms or other clothing, something was just not right. That happened to me, and then it struck me. There was a natural gloss finish. Clothing is not normally shiny. I should have used flat enamel !!!!!!! How simple !! However, not all colors are available in flat colors. I solved the problem by spraying the finished figures with Dull Cote. << Long long ago (ok, maybe ten years ago) I built tanks. Don't knock it before you try...weathering a tank is blast. And weren't the first tanks concidered land ships under the royal navy? I recall something like that from my colegiate military history studies. ANYWAY....when painting figures (and this applies to those on ships, too, as long as the scale is big enough) I would mix the paint with a little bit of talcum powder when painting clothing. It would give you a flat that was way beyond dull-coat flat. Look at your clothes and you will see that they don't reflect ANY light at all (unless you're wearing leather pants, and that's another story.) By varying the gloss/flatness ratio on the figure, they became much more realistic. Shiny sunglasses, semi-gloss equipment, flat flesh, ultra flat clothing and satchels, etc. I also just used this technique on a ship by accident. I haven't put the dull coat on, and the deck is a very flat, weathered teak color. The hull and superstructure is a semi-gloss. The contrast is noticable to a degree that it makes the deck look like it is of a different material than the hull..in this case sun-faded teak vs. weathered steel. I plan on spraying a flat coat on the deck to even it out a bit, and a semi-flat coat on the hull and superstructure. We'll see. john fiebke -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "John Rule" <jjrule@rogers.com> Subject: NRM Hi guys, Does anyone have a copy of the National Railway Museum's "Guide to NRM Photographic Collections" or know where I might access one locally? Thanks, John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Ken Goldman" <khgoldman@cnmnetwork.com> Subject: Re: posers This is from the Plan of the Day for 05 June 1943, USS Charles Carroll, two days after loading troops for the invasion of Sicily: "The general traffic rules are: Up and forward on the starboard side. Down and aft on the port side. The rules should be followed at all times, so that they will be instinctively followed in emergencies." Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER unique wood sculpture and fine scale models www.walruscarpenter.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "D.Przezdziecki" <dprzezdziecki@blueyonder.co.uk> Subject: Re: HMS Tiger LOL Craig, I am quite sure that Ted did not mean the post WWII Tiger but her battlecruiser predecessor from WW I. Regards D.P -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Robert Healy" <arrow206@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Posers To All, Regarding the etiquette of which side to go up or down when on a ship: The acronym is FUSSPAD. Forward and up starbord side, port and down. You do not want to be on the wrong side going the wrong direction during a man overboard drill... Regards, Bob Healy (USN again for the duration....) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Bauer, Douglas" <douglas_bauer@fire.ci.san-diego.ca.us> Subject: ship's boats I'm looking for a source for 1:96 scale ship's lifeboats....preferably in wood or resin, double-ended, and open (detailed or not). Loyalhanna has some, but in 1:48 scale....anyone know of any others? An old Dromedary catalog has several, but I'm told they're no longer available. Doug Bauer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Andrew Jones" <andrewj@syd.tomen.com.sg> Subject: USS Enterprise to retire in 2013 Seems that the new US Navy CVNX class carrier is to be postphoned from 2006 to 2007/8 which could leave the US navy 1 carrier short when the Enterprise will retire. Also Navy leaders say they must buy eight to 10 ships a year just to sustain today's fleet. But President Bush's budget request for 2003 calls for buying only five ships. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Alan Simon <amsimon@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Ship Speeds As follow- up to Robert Morris' post on 2/16, my first and only ship was a destroyer tender (modified C-3 merchantman) with a single screw. I joined USS Grand Canyon AD28 more than 23 years after she had been commissioned in 1946. "Make 44 rpm for 10 knots," was the typical command on the bridge. With a little luck and much sweat Grand Canyon occasionally made 14 knots on our crusises to/from the Med. Alan Simon Atlanta, Ga. P.S. Anybody know how I can kitbash a 1/700 or 1/350 kit to represent Shenandoah Class AD? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: donald p morgan <donaldpmorgan@juno.com> Subject: Putty Someone recently cited a problem with a resin kit in which a part was "riddled with holes". I don't know if this will help or not, but in assembling airplane models as well as 1/1200 scale ship models of both wood and white metal, I found the product "GREEN PUTTY" which is produced by Squadron Products 1115 Crowley Drive Carrollton, Texas 75011-5010 is very useful in hiding seams, filling unwanted gaps and making small parts. When building up a ship hull, by laminating layers of basswood, it is very useful in hiding the seams between layers. Once dried, it can be sandpapered like wood. Once the primer and paint are applied, you can't tell that the stuff is there, as in sanding, the edge can be feathered out nicely. There are cautions printed on the tube, as this stuff contains toluene. Use sparingly, as it will soften plastic if applied in heavy coats. I have never built a resin model, so I'm unsure of how well it would work on such material, but if nothing else is available............... Don Morgan San Antonio,Tx -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume